Exposure is not a verdict
When vineyards are exposed to wildfire smoke, grapes may absorb volatile phenols that can later be released during fermentation or aging. The existence of smoke nearby does not mean every vineyard or wine will be affected in the same way.
Timing, smoke density, grape development, variety and winemaking choices all influence risk. Laboratory analysis and small-lot trials help producers avoid conclusions based only on visibility or smell during the growing season.
What a drinker may notice
When perceptible, smoke-related characters may be described as ashy, burnt or medicinal, sometimes with a drying aftertaste. Sensory thresholds and individual sensitivity differ, which is one reason the topic resists simple headlines.
Sources & further reading
Australian Wine Research Institute · Smoke taint ↗